Hard Graft Guides

Welcome to Hard Graft Guides. My name is Mark and I have lived and worked in Portugal for many years. This website is to help travellers like you to make good choices when you start to plan your trip to Portugal.

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Beyond Lisbon and Porto: Discover Portugal’s Hidden Gems

Lisbon and Porto are must-visit cities, but to truly experience Portugal, you need to go beyond the obvious. Just as New York isn’t all of America and Sydney isn’t all of Australia, Portugal’s heart lies in its smaller towns, historical villages, and coastal escapes. From medieval wonders to wild coastlines, here are ten off-the-beaten-track destinations that deserve your attention.

I have travelled all over this beautiful country in my motorhome for many years. I’ve found the most amazing places that I would love to share with you, so here’s my list of places that aren’t Lisbon or Porto that I know really well.

Tomar – The Templar City

I may be biased, because of all the great towns and cities in Portugal I chose Tomar.

Tomar is a treasure trove of medieval history, often overlooked in favor of more famous castles. The UNESCO-listed Convent of Christ, once the headquarters of the Knights Templar, is an architectural marvel filled with secret symbols and hidden passageways. Wander through the charming old town, follow the Nabão River, and visit the Church of Santa Maria do Olival, the final resting place of Templar Grand Masters.

Lagos – More Than Just Beaches

While Lagos is known for its stunning coastline, many visitors miss its deeper history. The Slave Market Museum reveals its dark past as one of Europe’s first slave trading posts. The town also has a rich maritime heritage—this is where Prince Henry the Navigator launched Portugal’s Age of Discoveries. Beyond the beaches, Lagos offers dramatic sea caves, hidden grottoes, and a vibrant but relaxed atmosphere.

Faro – The Gateway to the Algarve’s Soul

Most travelers land in Faro and immediately leave for other parts of the Algarve. Big mistake. Faro’s walled old town, with its cobbled streets and Moorish influence, is a delight to explore. The Chapel of Bones, lined with the skulls of monks, offers a haunting yet fascinating glimpse into the past. Take a boat to the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a network of lagoons and islands teeming with wildlife.

Monsanto – The Bouldered Village

Perched on a hillside in central Portugal, Monsanto looks like a town swallowed by giant boulders. Houses are built between and under massive stones, creating a surreal landscape. Climb up to the ruins of the Monsanto Castle for panoramic views, and soak in the medieval charm that has earned this village the title of “Portugal’s Most Portuguese Village.”

Marvão – A Fortress in the Sky

Marvão is a spectacular walled town sitting atop a rocky peak in the Alentejo region. It feels like stepping back in time, with narrow medieval streets and breathtaking views stretching into Spain. Visit the Castle of Marvão, explore the town’s Arab-influenced architecture, and enjoy the tranquility of a place where few tourists venture.

Almeida – Portugal’s Star Fortress

Near the Spanish border, Almeida is a perfectly preserved star-shaped fortress town. This 12-pointed fortress was a key defensive stronghold, and today, its walls and underground tunnels tell stories of past battles. The town inside remains charmingly quiet, offering a glimpse into Portugal’s lesser-known military history.

Arouca – The Paiva Walkways & World’s Longest Footbridge

Adventure seekers should head to Arouca for the Paiva Walkways, a breathtaking 8km wooden trail suspended along the cliffs of the Paiva River. Cross the 516 Arouca Bridge, the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge, and take in the dramatic gorge below. The area is also known for its delicious Arouquesa beef and traditional convent sweets.

Peneda-Gerês National Park – Portugal’s Only National Park

Hidden in the north, Peneda-Gerês National Park is a world away from the crowds. Here, you’ll find ancient Roman roads, waterfalls, and remote mountain villages where wild Garrano horses still roam. Swim in crystal-clear lagoons, hike to stunning viewpoints, and explore abandoned villages like Vilarinho das Furnas, which re-emerges from the water during droughts.

Idanha-a-Velha – A Forgotten Roman City

This tiny village in central Portugal was once a thriving Roman city, yet today it remains eerily quiet. Wander through the ruins of a Roman forum, Visigothic churches, and medieval walls, all with barely another soul in sight. It’s a must-visit for history lovers who want to explore Portugal’s ancient past without the crowds.

Time to Go Beyond the Obvious

Portugal is filled with overlooked gems waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re exploring Templar history in Tomar, wandering the fortress streets of Marvão, or hiking the wild trails of Peneda-Gerês, there’s a whole world beyond Lisbon and Porto. So, next time you visit, take the road less traveled—you won’t regret it.

Choose your Tomar tour

You’ve come a long way and you may never return, so fill your time here productively. Below we have three options available, all very different, but designed to make your trip to Tomar unforgettable.

All you have to do is email or whatsApp me and I’ll help you with your travels in Tomar

€ 30

Per Person

Templar History and secrets
Tomar Castle
Synagogue of Tomar
2.5 hours long
All the legends and stories

Basic

€ 139

per person / min. 2 people

Entrance into the UNESCO Convent of Christ
Authentic Portuguese lunch
Tomar Castle tour
Templar Knights history and sights
Synagogue of Tomar
Mouchão Park
Aqueduto do Convento de Cristo
Everything on the basic tour

Gold

"When you travel, you experience, in a very practical way, the act of rebirth. You confront completely new situations, the day passes more slowly, and on most journeys you don't even understand the language the people speak."

Paulo Coelho, The Pilgrimage Tweet

What Tomar has to offer

Synagogue of Tomar, The Synagogue of Tomar, built in the 15th century, stands as a testament to the vibrant Jewish community that once thrived there. It’s one of Portugal’s oldest surviving synagogues, featuring Mudejar-style architecture with intricate geometric designs. The stories of the Jewish people that lived in Tomar will surprise you.
Castelo de Tomar, The Castle of Tomar, located in Portugal, is a stunning example of medieval architecture. Constructed in the 12th century by the Knights Templar, it served as their headquarters. Its strategic position atop a hill offers commanding views of the surrounding landscape. The castle features robust walls, towers, and a keep, showcasing both military might and religious symbolism. Over the centuries, it underwent expansions and modifications, blending various architectural styles. Today, it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, inviting visitors to explore its rich history and impressive fortifications.
Roda do parque do Mouchao, The Roda Hidráulica do Mouchão in Tomar, Portugal, is a historic hydraulic water wheel dating back to the 17th century. Located in the picturesque Mouchão Park, it served as part of the city’s irrigation system, harnessing the power of the Nabão River to supply water to the surrounding areas. The wheel, made of wood and iron, stands as a testament to Portugal’s engineering ingenuity of the time. Today, it’s a charming symbol of Tomar’s rich history and is a popular spot for visitors to admire and photograph.
Museu dos Fosforos, Strike forth to this perfect match. I’ll point to to the museum of matchboxes, it’s the biggest collection in the world! Portugal, pass by without stopping
Casa dos Cubos, Portugal, pass by without stopping
Rio Nabao, Tomar A beautiful meandering river in the centre of the city. We’ll walk along as I tell you the river’s secrets and stories.
Praca da Republica With bars and restaurants, churches and the statue of Gualdim Pais (the builder of Tomar) this is a great place to start your visit. 10 minutes
Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao, Between the old town and the Convento da Ordem de Cristo, Tomar Portugal, 3 minutes.

Mark Whiteley

Travel guide

Mark was an actor, writer and theatre producer before moving to Tomar.

Things to do in Tomar

The Hidden Gem: Exploring the Synagogue of Tomar. Steeped in history, the Synagogue in Tomar unlocks all the stories of the Jews in European history, from the Portuguese inquisition to the holocaust. LISTEN
The matchbox museum. This hidden gem of a museum, reached via the lovely courtyard of the Convento de São Francisco, contains Europe’s largest collection of matchboxes. Amassed by local ‘phillumenist’ Aquiles da Mota Lima, the 43,000-plus matchboxes from 127 countries around the world depict everything from bullfighters to bathing beauties, dinosaurs and French cuisine.
Portuguese Ceramics Studio Opposite the museum is a small Pottery and Tile Workshop where you can buy from local producers. FREE
Lagares d’El Rei, Tomar (museums) One of the city’s landmarks and located right at its entrance, along the Nabão River, the Levada de Tomar is an old mill area, made up of the Moinhos e Lagares d’El Rei (Mills and Olive Oil Press), built in the 12th and 13th centuries by the Templar Knights. The 1st charter of the village refers to the existence of mills and press wines, in the 12th century. FREE
Convent of Christ: A UNESCO World Heritage site, this impressive convent showcases a blend of Gothic, Manueline, and Renaissance architecture, originally founded by the Knights Templar. €15 as of Jan 2025

Tiqit Online tickets

Tomar Castle: This well-preserved castle of Tomar offers stunning views of the surrounding area and is rich in history, serving as a fortress for the Knights Templar. FREE
Charola: The round church at the heart of the Convent of Christ, known for its unique octagonal shape and stunning stained glass, is a remarkable example of Templar architecture.
Aqueduct of Pegões: An engineering marvel from the 16th century, this aqueduct stretches over 6 kilometres and features beautiful arches, providing a scenic backdrop for walks. FREE
Igreja de São João Baptista: A stunning church that combines Gothic and Renaissance elements, featuring intricate altarpieces and impressive tile work. FREE
Praça da República: The main square of Tomar, lined with cafes and shops, is a perfect spot to relax and soak in the local atmosphere. FREE
Museu dos Fósforos: A unique museum dedicated to matchsticks, showcasing an eclectic collection of art and objects made entirely from this simple material. FREE
Valley of the Templars: A beautiful natural area around Tomar, ideal for hiking and enjoying the serene landscapes, dotted with historical landmarks. FREE
Church of Santa Maria do Olival: The Templar Knight’s church. A significant church that served as a burial place for the Knights Templar. Lots of Templar secrets to solve here. FREE
Castelo de Almourol: Located on an island in the Tagus River, this picturesque castle can be reached by boat and offers a fascinating glimpse into medieval history. PAID

These sites reflect Tomar’s rich history and cultural heritage, making it a charming destination to explore.

Food & Drink

Restaurant Landeira

Great place good beef, I’ve not tried the fish but I’m sure it’s good too.

Restaurante Jardim Portuguese with a lovely garden in the back.

Yukul – Pizza

Manjar Dos Templarios – Spit roast pork medi

Curry Indian House and Star Curries are both great.

Enigma – Amazing burgers

Taverna d’Talha – At the bottom of the hill to the castle. Great snacks and drinks.

Landeira, Tasquina da Mitas or Beira Rio – More upmarket

Arco pub – Prego rolls

Clandestino – My favourite for Portuguese food.

Canoa – wine and tapas

The fish is always a good choice in Portugal, but bear in mind it’ll probably have a head on it.

Bacalhau – Is cod, it can be found everywhere and they make everything with it.

What to see and do around Tomar

Golegã and the house of Carlos Relvas
Aquaduct de Pegoes here Aquaduct feeding water to the castle and convent
Batalha 40 minute drive. And well worth a visit.
Óbidos great castle and medieval town 1hr drive.
Coimbra 1hr drive.
Fátima 35 mins Sanctuary of Fátima, a Catholic pilgrimage site.
Lisbon is 2hr train (€22 return) or 1 hr drive. I have spent many days around Fatima, I’m not religious in the slightest, I just find it amazing.